Niky Roehreke

My fascination for illustration has increased immensely and the relationship between illustration and fashion design I believe is vital not only in an obvious sense to 'illustrate' and communicate ideas between the artist and the audience but to portray a certain element of emotional grandeur.
For fashion it is not necessarily about honing as much obscure detail in the figure beholding the garment but focusing upon how to demonstrate a certain material and its unique texture and sculptural qualities.
The story behind this German/Japanese illustrator is not only heart warming reaching out to shy and somewhat introverted individuals seeking a way to relieve anxiety through art, yet unique. Her focus upon hands as a ulterior motif as they communicate with others and hold 'special qualities' is something she feels is important. All her illustrations feature hands as a reoccurring theme, they are 'a goal, something rare'. Roehreke's use of mixed media allows her illustrations to become 3D distancing her from other fashion illustrators who predominantly use watercolour and ink as a solid base for there design.

Its safe to say that I will never use one medium to produce my fashion illustrations again! Utterly beautiful. 

Issey Miyake

Will July please hurry up!.. After seeing a short taster of Miyake's designs through an oriental fashion film by Alex Sainsbury, it would be an understatement to say I didn't worship the ground that he walked on. It is not only the concept that is enthralling but his continuous passion to collaborate with high-tech science to produce the most diverse and controversial designs. After he was initially inspired from a subtle handkerchief crease he has transformed and changed the perception of the industry's knowledge of pleats.
Launching the Miyake Design Studio in 1970, allowed the freedom to produce dynamic garments that contain a physical ambiguity creating a dialogue between clothing and the underlying body.

   'Once it's made, fabric is like the grain in wood, you can't go against it. You know what I like to do sometimes? I like to close my eyes and let the fabric tell me what to do.'

Issey Miyake began to manipulate pleated textiles from 1988 but the official Pleats Please exposition was not until 1993. He has influenced a large number of designers to pursue this aesthetic and adapt it to there unique designs, such as Naoki Takizawa. His work has conserved Miyake's career-long focus on a typical forms and transforming shapes through applications to advanced textiles.

Oh dear I could talk for hours about this designer but really the images speak for themselves...

JULY 2012 Miyake studio's launch Pleats Please' latest Publication

A Lab Milano S/S 2012

This garment is extremely placid in comparison to the
rest of the collection, yet counterbalances the impression
first glance very minimal tailoring. Paradoxally, when
one focuses upon the garment the cut out sections in the
top allow for a high collar to become pronounced and for
the arms to appear longer and demand for the eye to travel
down the garment. The sheer fluidity of the floor-length
skirt is a perfect finish with varying thin pleats increasing
in size, yet narrowing down the garment. The look overall
further connects with this theme of the Amazon, represen-
ting the river that flows un-noticed between the trepidation
forest either side.

I have to admit prints are a serious weakness of mine, hence when I discovered A Lab's most recent collection my heart melted. The collection is all about portraying the wild habitat of the Amazon. They emphasise the earthy nature and grit that we associate with the foliage combined with the deep acid colours and striking edges and tailoring which communicate the intensity of the tropical heat. The focus is not solely print based, the structural garments enhance the impact of the collection.. folded palm leaves create the edges of a symmetrical skirt.
                                                                  

The sharp tailoring defining the neck travels down the blazer, colliding with fiery flowers flaring from the cuffs and bottom of the garment. The shorts subtly merging with the prints, the palette is predominantly orange and this sets the tone off with the laced toe poking heels providing the dramatic finish.

Alice McCall

Alice McCall is a new designer to me, but what struck me about the Australian designers recent collection is how she has unconsciously being inspired by various other designers. Maybe this is because of her amazing work experience catalogue; styling for MTV for 2 years, then for Natalie Imbruglia for Dazed and Confused Magazine with photographer Rankin. As a freelance personal stylist for numerous celebrities has probably what attributed to her success, working with the likes of Blondie, Kelis and Destiny's Child as well as international campaigns for Nike, Levi's and Rimmel.

After being head hunted by Buddhist Punk to design a women's collection which appeared in the windows at Liberty's causing a demand worldwide. She has worked on numerous collections at London Fashion week until 2004 when she flew back to Australia to launch her new Alice McCall label at Australian Fashion week.

    The label,
                  'which combines elements of tender girlish charm and bohemian flare all mixed up with a bit of rock and roll, has garnered devotees around the world.'

Remind you very much of Christopher Kane's S/S 12 collection? But I love how she has captured the Russian Doll aesthetic. Keeping very much to her trademark style with sheer silk dresses featuring bright floral embroidery combined with fine cut edges. The basis of the palette was white, yet layered with neon colours fuchsia, tangerine, acid yellow and sky blue.

 

 

 

Louis Vuitton S/S 12? This laser cut baby blue garment is reminiscent of the looks we were seeing a few months ago, but there is a stunning pattern comprised in this garment with loose pleats from above the waist line. This typical tea-dress shape has being reinvented with a sharp crew neck and absent sleeves, combined with a signature pentagon circular shape cut-out of the chest.

One thing that is prominent this season is nude shoes, they have definitely made a statement, from clogs, loafers or court heels it has been a regular feature on the runway. To be honest it is about time too, they are a fail safe with most garments and finish of a look subtly.



 

 

 

 

Introducing...

Hellooo, my first blog was my application to Manchester University for Fashion design.. So technically this is my first ever official post as me. This is something that I have been intending to do for months, but as ever my Foundation course at Leeds Art college has demanded my attention.

But where there is an end, most upsetting saying goodbye to Leeds and some of the most lovely friends, other doors open to  London -Rochester University of the Arts to study a unique course for me Fashion Design: for print. It will not just be studying a random degree, its my passion, something that defines me.

A little taster of my final garments for my foundation final major project, the direction I have focused upon was draping and the impact upon the silhouette-

Inspiration for the styling of this shoot came from Chanel's recent catwalk show A/W 12-13, my interpretation was with pearls rather than jewels to emphasise the pale impression in the shoot.

Sarah Burton for McQueen this season created a dramatic effect with there extremely textured collection, layers drawn in at the waist with sculptured silver belts, cascading pleats beneath and tiered lengths. Minimal attention for make-up, frosty hair adds to the snowqueen imagery. A dream. They may be the most universally recognised labels, but the work that goes into each season is phenomenal. I would give my right arm to sew a small pearl to any of there garments...

Ta ta for now xx